So as I
may have mentioned, I live in Bayit VeGan now. The looks on people’s faces when
they hear I live in Bayit VeGan is often interesting to say the least. “That’s quite frum, isn’t it?” is the
typical response of people in the know, manly modern orthodox Jews.
When I lived in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, people would usually nod with an approving
look, even smile. Williamsburg, or “the Burg” or as some of my former coworkers
would say “WillieB” is located in Brooklyn just over the bridge and is really
more part of Manhattan than Brooklyn in attitude and in access to public
transport. It has become extremely gentrified in the past few years, although historically
it hosted Jewish immigrants (such as my grandma when she was a little girl) and
later hipsters. Even some historical rap videos were made a few blocks away
from my former apartment. But now it is a mix of everything—hipsters,
gentrified hipsters (high rises on the waterfront galore), a few streets with
Latin American stores and ultra-orthodox Jews. In this way, my living in the
Burg appealed to anyone I might talk to, especially fellow gentrified hipsters.
Like
Williamsburg, Brooklyn, Bayit VeGan also has its fair share of ultra-orthodox
Jews. In fact, the vast majority are, dafka, ultra-orthodox Jews. There are no
hipsters insight. However, similar to the Burg, there are a lot of French people
(including two of my roommates, one of whom seems to know many people in the
‘hood including her aunt) and supposedly some Americans, though I have only
seen three of my compatriots thus far.
Bayit
VeGan, meaning House and Garden, is
located in southwest Jerusalem directly off the city’s new tramline. It is near
Har Hertzel and Yad VaShem, the Holocaust memorial museum. Like Williamsburg
(and actually most of Jerusalem), Beit Vegan is a mix of new and old:
While most of
Jerusalem is pervaded with ancient history, the archaeological discoveries at
the border of Bayit Vegan have been particularly rich. A 4,000 year-old
cemetery that occupies more than half an acre has been found near Bayit Vegan,
as well as many Canaanite artifacts. Archaeologists believe that burials took
place in the cemetery during the Bronze Age.
In the 20th century, Bayit Vegan was one of the six neighborhoods designed by the Bauhaus architect Richard Kaufman, along with Beit HaKerem and Rechavia. The picturesque charm of Kaufman’s design has increased with age: today, the weathered stone facades gleam softly in the sunlight. Verdant greenery seems to escape from every crack in the aging walls and overflow from windowsills.
(http://www.gojerusalem.com/discover/item_11332/Bayit-Vegan)
Stairway to Heaven |
Bayit
VeGan is Jerusalem’s highest neighborhood. Many apartments have balconies and
the views really are quite amazing—you can see the city’s bright lights and
Jerusalem’s hills in the background. Like East Talpiot, where Beit Canada was
located, the best way to get around is to go up or down like shoots or ladders
rather than to go around and around the mountain at a slow incline. Thus, getting
to my bank was 15 minutes up several flights of stairs to the tippy top of the
hill.
I still have more to explore but at the very least, the walk to my apartment is nice. A playground, a few synagogues, one happening pizza place and an event space where festive Hassidic tunes are played until late at night.
One of the Many Synagogues on My Block
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